I have not spend enough time together with tonneau watches to really clarify the science of that which makes an ideal form and wearing experience. To say that it’s all about proportions is overly simple. In this instance, I feel that the comparatively flat top and base, rather conventional and stubby lugs, tall and horizontal sides with coined edges, along with the really round dial are exactly what make this watch work.The Breguet Watch Homage Replica Heritage 5410 is produced in both an 18k rose gold and 18k white gold case. For my hands-on demonstration I’m wearing the 18k white gold version. The case dimensions actually appear small, but as you can see, it doesn’t wear that modestly given the case depth. The Breguet Heritage 5410 is 35mm wide, 42mm tall drag to lug, and 12.9mm thick. It has 30 meters of water resistance. This watch might look a bit on the small side for very massive wrists, but for a small to medium wrist such as mine, it looks really nice.Moreover, the relatively thick and highly polished bezel adds welcome visual mass that I think helps the overall shape. It is possible to observe that the entire case can also be curved, allowing it to wear quite comfortably. The sapphire crystal is also curved, but not more so than the situation itself, which preserves a sense of visual harmony. While there are other well-done tonneau-shaped instances out there that thrive via distinct designs, Breguet gets tonneau right in their own distinct way. Of course, it is not a design for everybody, but with something this visually distinctive you clearly are not likely to earn all audiences happy.The most intriguing part of the Breguet Heritage 5410 is the dial, needless to say. Complication-wise that the timepiece is rather easy, offering the time using a subsidiary seconds dial and a big date indicator window. Where things get interesting is the specific style of the Roman numeral hour markers, in addition to the in-house created guilloche-machine engraving that is once again excellent. The dial itself is produced from 18k gold, which can be tender and easy to cut, and then silvered once it’s done.
Having unveiled the Classique 7147 with a delicately beautiful enamel dial earlier in the year, Breguet has now dropped an enamel dial version of the thinnest automatic tourbillon on the market. Originally introduced in 2013 with a guilloché dial (as the ref. 5377), the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 checks in at just 7.45mm thick, case and all.
Measuring 42mm in diameter, the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 is available in both platinum and rose gold, in the classic Breguet style with a narrow bezel, straight lugs and reeded caseband.
The only difference lies in the dial, which is now grand feu enamel and rid of its power reserve indicator. It features the same off-centre layout as on the guilloche version – a feature found on many historical excentré Breguet pocket watches – but with Breguet numerals in black lacquer. And the minute track is again inspired by 19th century Breguet pocket watches, with tiny lozenges for the quarters and a mystical symbol every five minutes.
The watch is powered by the cal. 581 that has a tourbillon regulator running at 4Hz. In contrast to the understated dial, the movement is richly decorated – the bridges, barrel and oscillating weight are all hand-engraved.
While the dial is classically styled, the tourbillon is contemporary in construction and materials. The tourbillon cage is made of titanium, with both the balance spring and lever escapement made of silicon. And the barrel mounted on roller bearings instead of a traditional pivot point – helping the movement stay remarkably thin – while still managing an impressive 80-hour power reserve.
Another reason the movement measures just 3mm thick is the peripheral winding system. The narrow, semi-circular platinum rotor is mounted around the edge of the calibre, instead of adding height on top of the movement bridges.
Price and Availability
The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 (ref. 5367BR299WU) is expected to be priced slightly lower than the existing model with a guilloche dial, which costs US$149,500 or S$214,800 in pink gold.